I returned to Sivananda Chateau at Orleans in winter for a two-week break. It’s the second time I’ve been there since I did the Teacher Training Cert in 2008. Sivananda ashrams are a refuge for me. Whichever one you go to, you know what you are going to get – the Sivananda timetable that benefits body and mind, with enough time to yourself to read or walk in the grounds. In the Chateau’s case, it’s in a valley on the edge of misty forest (the old hunting grounds of the French nobility), which at that time of year has an icy beauty.
It’s not a hotel or spa, so you can’t compare facilities (the wood cabins are chilly when temperatures drop and you sit with your coat on in a heated tent for meals). And of course, there’s the obligatory karma yoga (for me, chopping vegetables in the kitchen — this selfless service is, according to Sivananda, one of the quickest ways to spiritual advancement). But you need a little austerity to remind yourself you’re in a spiritual place. The Chateau has even got a little more accommodating since I last went. You can hire a bike into the nearby town where you can sit in a small square and sip hot chocolate or go to the megastore for essentials. And there’s now even a laundrette.
The staff at the ashram go out of their way to be friendly, and over the holiday period make themselves available for a chat or spiritual advice. I find them genuine and feel relaxed in their company. I never feel anyone is judging me, and it’s a relief not to have to be physically attractive or worldly accomplished.
Peace Puja
The ashram makes sure most of the classes are taught by experienced teachers during the busy holiday period when many guests are teachers themselves or long-term practitioners, eager to pick up tips. Holding the postures for a long-time makes the Sivananda asana sequence a meditative experience, and 20 minutes of Savasana at the end is deeply relaxing. In this age of the Internet we are bombarded with different yoga and meditation techniques. Personally, I think it’s better to stay with something simple and learn it in depth. Admittedly, I don’t always stick to Sivananda in my home asana practice, but for pranayama and meditation I do, finding their techniques the easiest for stilling my mind.
But what makes Sivananda special is the spiritual teaching. I believe many people can teach asanas, but it’s rare to find someone who can understand, experience and communicate spiritual knowledge. The mind is vulnerable, so you have to be really careful who you listen to. The Sivananda swamis come from respected lineage and are some of the very few people I trust with my spiritual well-being.